Christmas 2015: New Zealand

First leg: Christchurch & Kaikoura

Christchurch is situated in the upper half of the lower island of New Zealand.  It is famous for the enormous damaging earthquake of 2011.  Large parts of the city were totally upended, and they are slowly recovering.  They are striving to be innovative with their “new” city, and have done several initiatives like a container mall, a cardboard cathedral (more on that soon) and other fun ways to manage the rubble that is still evident in many areas.   Still, it looks like a clean, well-kept city with lots of trees and an open feel that many cities lack, due to the recent law of prohibiting buildings to be taller than 7 stories, as a precautionary measure against future earthquakes.  Christchurch lies squarely above the plates from the east and the west, so there is merit in their caution.

The transitional cathedral was an unexpected treat.   A Japanese architect well-known for his work in places recovering from natural disasters designed a beautiful space for the cathedral that involves huge hallow tubes of cardboard, covered with a thin veneer of some wood, and an exterior roof that is torqued in a way that makes me think he has taken the possibility of wind shearing into account.  As we were looking around we heard an exquisite choir practicing and when we asked we learned they were performing in an hour’s time in the cathedral, an evening of 9 readings and carol responses.  They sang 2 songs in response to each reading, and then the 3^rd song was a carol which the whole congregation stood and sang heartily.  I believe this performance attracted exceptional singers, because the people around us were quite fine, and at times I had a hard time hearing myself sing, usually not a problem.  It was a delightful evening.

We were lucky enough to be in Christchurch the day after they celebrated the reopening of their beautiful art museum.  The edifice was beautiful and full of light, and the collection was very interesting, mostly modern, and many Kiwi artists represented.  Follow this link for a sample of some of my favorites.

We also took a day trip to Kaikoura via the very robust bus system in place. Kaikoura is on the coast, to the north of Christchurch, and is known as the place to go to see seals, whales, and several birds particular to NZ.  We decided not to spend the 300 $ for the whale expedition, and instead took a 4 hour hike that ended up being 5 hours because we got lost and had to do one part twice.  We still got back to town with 15 minutes to spare before the bus picked us up for the trip back to Christchurch.

We’re now on the way to Queenstown, near the Fjordlands.  Here we will be treated to a new topography all together, with fjords, straits, water, and a gorgeous sound in Milford Sound.  The day after Christmas we will take a cruise through the sound and enjoy what many readings have labeled the “eighth wonder of the world.”  We are driving through a beautiful pass right now with purple and pink lupines on each side, and if we were going so fast, I’d snap a click for sure.  Trust me, they are beautiful.  PICS HERE.

BTW, a short list we could make very long, but don't want to sound like, well, complainers?!

Things we are enjoying that are absent in China

1.     Magazines in English 

2.     Water from the tap.  Not that it is particularly flavorful, it’s just very convenient.

3.     Not worrying about the likelihood that eating something might result in some unpleasant side effects.

4.     People speaking to me in a language I understand about 99% of the time. It makes everyone seem very friendly, but I realize I’m a bit starved for a conversation over a business transaction beyond “how much” and “thank you”.

5.     Western products you recognize and enjoy, like particular body lotions, toothpaste, etc.
And the list goes on....