When we returned to the train station at the
village closest to our rural home, we went to the supermarket to forage. I forgot it was Friday afternoon until I saw
the incredible check-out lines and tried to source a large cart
unsuccessfully. I didn’t mind it too
much as there is so much there to look at and enjoy. The cheese department alone is a great field
trip for me. The gorgonzolas, the
buffalo mozzarellas, the pecorinos, the grana pandanos, and of course, the
parm. At the produce department there
were lovely local/regional figs, peaches, donut peaches, nectarines, grapes,
tomatoes, melons, all marked with a label that verified their geographic
origin. Italy has been down with this
regional sourcing and labeling way before it was a thing anywhere else. They have an excellent culinary “pride of
place” that helps you travel around the country with your mouth, and know where
you’ve been. The food here is absolutely
justifiably famous. Being “kissed by the
Tuscan Sun” really does give produce an other-worldly flavor. I just walked by the reddest tomatoes I’ve
ever seen here at a local small grocer.
All the menus in the restaurants focus on
what is in season, and on only the best ingredients that ooze integrity. For me, that’s always been the secret to good
cooking, and here it’s a bit of a religion.
For example, there is a particular coffee drink here that is part coffee
gelato and part ice that I don’t know the name of but I call it paradise. A.S. of Iowa City would swoon, before she
ordered a litre or two. It’s found at
some wine bars, and yesterday afternoon while waiting for the train Daughter #1
spied it and tried to order me a cup.
“It’s not good, really. Too late.” Assured the waitress and waited for
an alternate order. Fair enough, I thought. Why drink second-rate stuff that they don’t
even want to sell?
Italians have even made rules and regulations
about what can be marked as “Chianti” wine, or “parmeggiano reggiano”, etc. They have a system labeled D.O.C. D.O.C is the acronym for Denominazione di origine controllata
("Controlled designation of origin") is a quality assurance label for
Italian food products, especially wines and various cheeses
(Denominazione di Origine Protetta). There are different levels of the labels
but I don’t worry about that; the DOC tells me what I need to know.
Also, the restaurants take pride in having a menu that reflects their regional specialities, like the wild boar is here in Chianti, along with all the different Chianti wines. You don’t see any cannoli here in Chianti/Tuscany on the menus, nor tortellini, which belongs to Emilia, (along with the fantastic Modena balsamics, the Parma Ham, and pasta and of course the parmiagno reggiano.) In this way you are guaranteed to have the freshest and best of ingredients which are prepared as they have been prepared for centuries to great effect. All in all, it’s a great food philosophy which all eaters benefit from.
BTW, while writing this blog I was perusing a guide book and discovered the Emilia region is directly north of Tuscany, where we are camped, so I dreamed up a day trip to Ravenna to take in the Byzantine mosaics they are famous for, as well as a dinner stop in Bologna for some of the balsamics, parms, Parma Ham, and filled tortellini they are famous for. I shall report back after our sojourn tomorrow. This country is indeed a food lover’s paradise. See below for the ultimate grilled cheese made yours truly, featuring olive bread from Firenze's EATALY (yes, Mario has made his mark here, too!), along with mozzarella di Buffalo, using the rich butter from the Romagna region of Italy. Bueno Appetito!
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