The Butcher of Greve

At most airbnb places, the host leaves a book for guests to write their thanks in, and occasionally a recommendation.  The book at our rental has many recommendations, and one was to visit a very small town nearby, Greve, (20 minutes by car) to get some great steaks from the butcher at #45 on the main square.  The name of the establishment is Antica Macelleria Falorni. Today we made that pilgrimage, and we have already penned in another one for Saturday.  The town square is quaint and lovely and sleepy most of the time, until people come back from their vineyard walks.  While I was shopping at a ceramic place, daughter #2 rushed in to tell me I was going to feint or die when I visited the butcher shop, and she wanted to be there for the reaction.  I don’t think I disappointed her, as it would not be hyperbole to say I was overwhelmed. 

When you enter the shop you realize you are in the presence of greatness simply by the smell. the most delicious smell coming from meat I have had the pleasure of inhaling.  It’s right up there with “Butter Street” in Brussels. I walked through the many caves/rooms, trying to focus and regroup, but my basket remained empty.  How do you choose among or between the best of the best?  Yesterday we had gelato from a place in San Gimignano that claimed to have won the “World Cup of Gelato” but this place made no claims.  They didn’t need to, their products were doing the talking.  I immediately thought of the W. clan from Imogene, Des Moines and Omaha, who have their yearly ode to meat in the form of a “Happy Meat Night”, and wished I could have transported them for the day.  I’m not enough of a lover of meat to fully appreciate where I was standing, but they would have been.  The cheese cellar that featured about 7 varieties of pecorino, the specialty of the Chianti region, was another wave of great smells.  There was also a menu for lunch, which we are hoping to work our way through in the next 10 days.  Today we had the best slow-cooked pork I’ve eaten, along with my favorite bean, the cannellini (when I can’t get my beloved Mexican blacks.)  They had many small dishes, very moderated priced, that featured their products to great advantage.  We tried 7 or 8 and all were prepared with great integrity to showcase an incredible product. 

Perhaps the best non-meat thing in the shop is the “enomatic” machine and card.  There are 8 different wines from their cellars featured in the machine, and you put euros on the card, and stick it in the machine.  Next you choose which wine you want, and you have a choice of 3 quantities, around .7 euro for a testing swallow, and up from there to a proper glass.  We used ours down to the .04 euro.  I tried 4 different chiantis and they were all very good, but the highest price definitely was the winner.  Why is that always the case?  No matter.  Saturday there is a weekly market and a beer festival. I’ll be camping out at the butcher’s after I see what produce they have on offer. We may have to stay overnight, but we are training now to be ready for Saturday.  Cheers!

Pictures here for 3 small towns:  Greve, Volterra, and San Gimignano.