RAVENNA…City of Mosaics and terrific food scene

Yesterday we took a day trip to Ravenna.  Actually, we were on our way to Lucca (opposite direction) but missed a crucial turn-off so decided to head to Ravenna, which is where we originally decided to go the day before.  Plans change quickly, what can I say?

We were looking for the famous food of Emilia Romagna region, and Ravenna’s famous Byzantine mosaics, and everyone’s best dreams were realized.  We had one of the top 10 meals I’ve ever had, made by a friendly cook in a very small osteria.  I know I’ve said that about more than 10 meals, but I think this is a meal that will hold it own against some mighty contenders. Emilia Romagna has in its corner the fact that Parma ham, parmigianno reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and pasta all originate from this region.  How could the food be anything but stunning with such raw ingredients, I ask you.  I opened with a plate of cheeses from the area, then shared a plate of polenta topped with beef ragu, and then the piece de resistance, a dish for which this area is famous, small cappellitti en brodo, small pasta “hats” filled with ricotta and parmesan, floating in a beautiful broth. 

This is a dish I have labored over for Christmas occasionally, and I must honestly say mine isn’t even close to what this chef offered.  Well, maybe it was close, but this was definitely superior, mostly because of the local cheeses so well flavored. I had a glass of the famous San Genovese wines, which was super smooth and flavorful. I finished with a lemon mousse/tort that was made with yogurt and that everyone ate like the fox family from “The Fantastic Mr. Fox”.  We had to order another immediately and then cut it into fourths so no one got panic stricken.  Others had similarly good meals, and our bill was so reasonable it felt like cheating them.  Both the waitress and the chef in this tiny place made very sure we were happy and had everything we needed, which was about half of their short menu, all plates revealed.  

The mosaics were so plentiful they became overwhelming at times.  We visited 7 of the 8 or so main places, and left one to return for.

I once again was reminded how useful history can be when traveling, as much as I hate to admit it.  Having a poor knowledge myself, I relied on my companion and a book on Ravenna’s art to fill in the blanks. In the 1^st century A.D., Caesar Augustus set about reorganizing his empire [which apparently was falling apart] and chose Ravenna as the port for his East Mediterranean fleet. In 493 Ravenna was occupied by Theodoric, who ruled wisely and had many of the fine buildings with extravagant mosaics built.  [Side note:  Daughter #1 remembers this historical factoid because of paper dolls she had some 25 years ago of one Theodora, wife of Theodoric. You never know when your imaginative play of your youth will come in handy, I guess.]  That’s all the history I needed, except to know that after about 525, Ravenna went into a tailspin and is just now coming out of it.  It makes for a very sleep, slow, quiet town that still revers its art of old.

We toured a still-being-completed museum of mosaics and saw some wonderful modern mosaics, then hit the motherlode at several places, until at 5:00 we called the game because of eye and brain exhaustion.  It was a 2.5 hour hike in the car, but it was well worth it, for both the meal and the mosaics.  PICS HERE.